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C111 article
Dan Shipsides
Performance on an edge
Dan Shipsides describes his practice.
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Dan Shipsides: Tombstone wall, Blue Mountains, Australia, 2000; courtesy Dave Mateer / Dan Shipsides
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Without being dismissive, I can find myself being cynical about predictable and consensual audiences within performance-art festivals and arty gatherings (as necessary as they are), but of course this extends to many art forms and their specific audiences and I can be cantankerous.
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Dan Shipsides: Alien, 2003, drawing with Christophe Laumône; courtesy the artist
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Dan Shipsides: Swammerdam Groove, 2002, video stills; courtesy the artist
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Dan Shipsides: Swammerdam Groove, 2002, video stills; courtesy the artist
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Working to a brief of context and opportunity, I sometimes do make non-climbing performance, live with an audience, but here I shall focus on my climbing-artpractice which often isn’t live in that sense. In many ways the climbing work developed in a sort of stand-off, parodying and comparative relationship to how I encountered and perceived much performance art. That relationship has resulted in my trying to challenge pre-conceived and accepted models of performance practice (also in a wider scheme, art and research practice) and find forms which shift the context of how, where and for whose interest the ‘event’ happens.
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Dan Shipsides: Seeking edelweiss, 2003; courtesy Isabelle Ellul
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| Dan Shipsides: Gecko roof, 2000, installation view; courtesy the artist |
I instigated performance within my own work initially as a way of making the process apparent and valuing that over the static thing. I do not propose the actual actions of climbing as essentially a way of communicating. It’s not story-telling. But climbing as form does play a convenient role of analogy to recognised art forms (performance art, dance, sculpture, drawing, etc.). As the process of anything becoming an aesthetic object or event is problematic (possibly skidding into something self-conscious and vain), I adopt certain strategies or methodologies which I will outline below.
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Dan Shipsides: Swammerdam Groove, 2002, video stills; courtesy the artist
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I, somewhat idealistically, think of performance as something that happens all the time - we are performing our lives - but being realistic, to interface with cultural discourse and to function in the art world (as a valuable flexible arena in which the experimental can be given space - albeit with particular contexts and histories), I am aware that a form of framing is needed to make it apparent, to be able to quantify, appreciate and bring ideas out into a viable realm. So I employ methods which perform without ‘performing’ so that the activity is less self-conscious and the creative dynamic is focused on a functional application.
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Dan Shipsides: Gorro Frigi, north-east side, Montserrat, 2004; courtesy the artist
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Dan Shipsides: Abstract No.3, 1999, video still; courtesy the artist
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Climbing as art
My interest lies in how non-art activities may be used experimentally (often mutating into hybrids) with and without the context of art or economy of the exhibition to see what that might offer us in terms of new ideas, understanding and perspectives. It might be described as part anthropology and part cultural engineering. Rock-climbing suits this enquiry. Though I argue that it is highly creative (and very visual) and that it contributes something akin to an artwork (in the concept of a route) and has dance-like attributes (Trish Brown used climbing techniques in choreography), rock-climbing isn’t usually thought of asan art activity. Whilst it might relate to performance art (along with other art forms in different ways) in terms of body and space, extending out of the norm, exploring risk and being live (real) it, importantly for me, is an un-theatrical activity. Its creativedynamic is not essentially for show or for communicating meaning. The (climbing) performance is essentially about problem-solving and existing within and without established boundaries.
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Dan Shipsides: Alien, 2003, video still; courtesy the artist
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Dan Shipsides: Under a frogs arse @ the bottom of a coalmine, 1997, video stills; courtesy the artist
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Dan Shipsides: Under a frogs arse @ the bottom of a coalmine, 1997, video stills; courtesy the artist
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If the audience isn’t restricted specifically to the art world then ‘art’ is a flexible field in which to use climbing and apply it in new ways and locations and to derive new forms from it. I present work in both climbing and art contexts and of course these are not exclusive. It is funny how translation is often required, an aspect that I find interesting and often motivation for work - as a critique I enjoy the possibility of someone being flummoxed by climbing terms as equally as one might be by ‘art’ terms. Our narratives and representations are of the activity that creates them but new ideas can be found when the framework is made apparent or frameworks can overlap or be mutually expanded.
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| Dan Shipsides: Made in HEDAH, 2004, video stills; courtesy the artist |
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Dan Shipsides: Made in HEDAH, 2004, video stills; courtesy the artist
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My ‘performance’ work now, generally, isn’t done as a performance in terms of its being live to audience - I often make it to video or it becomes text (e.g. Gorro Frigi, transcribed mini-disc recording of running commentary as I climb), image, construction or something else (partial documents of the ephemeral), so it is further mediated. Essentially though, the relationship to performance is that it is performative - it comes from a direct experiential activity. I remember Slavka Sverakova once called it “user friendly performance”1 which I enjoyed in the sense that I hope my work isn’t self-consciously ‘performed’ in the theatrical sense and that it bridges the space between art and non-art audiences. You may not know the climbing terms for specific actions or equipment but you know what the activity does and might be able to stab at the question of ‘why’.
A climbing based piece under a frog’s arse at the bottom of a coal mine (1997) was live to an audience (and has been shown as video since). Here I constructed a climbing installation in Catalyst Arts - with a route which circumnavigated the space. I was scheduled to climb at specific times every other day during the exhibition. My intention was to use it as a training place - but as an audience began to come I became more and more self-conscious and I found myself performing - climbing differently than I would usually climb and finding a definite beginning and end to the activity. The actual route became the performance and, as it was circular, I could climb it repeatedly until I became too tired and fell. It gave it a flexible but particular time length.
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Dan Shipsides: San Lorenzo direct, 2004, courtesy Thomas Puetz
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Many of my video-climbs (mostly urban or non-natural locations) play with ideas of art, context and location - encouraging the elasticity of art and its audiences. The stone bridge (1998) was essentially a video climbing-installation - the performance (other than the opening night) being made to video. Abstract no.3 (1999), a climb made on a large abstract public sculpture, is also a video as there was no-one there to see it live. In these climbs I look for a concept (of context and activity, for example, Made in HEDAH (2004) climbing a space to create the letters of the name of that art space, or The stone bridge, which three-dimensionalised a Chinese drawing to the sound track of Al Green…) and a beauty. I find a beauty in a particular relationship through the physical spatial interaction with the structure - body in space. Certain climbing actions in relation to the specific spatiality of the structure, rock, sculpture, building, etc., can be very beautiful. Frieze revolution (2004) is a simple video-climb made on a public sculpture in Maastricht. The climb is low and circular and is quite intimate. The conceptual aspect of the act and how and where it is shown can also bring further discourse with cultural, political and contextual concerns. But mainly I do it for fun.
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Dan Shipsides: San Lorenzo direct, 2004, video still; courtesy the artist
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Dan Shipsides: Frieze revolution, 2004, video still; courtesy the artist
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San Lorenzo direct (2004) was a climb made on a wrecked freight ship off the coast of Istanbul. It is typical of how this way of working is now very simple. I go to a place, seek out what would be fun to climb, climb and video it and then show the video. How I determine what is interesting and fun (and what is not) comes from a sensibility which is informed through being a climber and an artist and also through whatever makes up my personality - my own sense of fun and desire, my pleasure of moving in a particular way and engaging in an act of spatial physicality. I half jokingly / seriously call it spatial erotica. They are gleeful projects.
Video for me is avaluable tool. It has massive limitations in terms of relating an experience - but in differing ways my work often concerns filtering and thereby reducing the experiential into the art form - allowing another experience to come from that. The experiential ‘landscape’ is not attainable away from the actual and we all know a map is not faithful to reality. So I have partial faith in video to capture the performative aspect of my activity, at least from certain perspectives, and enabling it to be brought to an audience. My video technique is purposely low-fi, direct and with minimal choreography or planning - often using untrained colleagues as camera operators. Of course experience tells me what worksvisually and this may affect what I think worth climbing or not.
I found it useful to use the ‘less self-conscious’ performance of others in gallery-based projects such as; Blood cell sequence (2002), a set of interactive climbing constructions given over to local climbers in Amsterdam, Gecko roof (2000), an installation on which local climbers could climb a reconstruction of a famous (but banned) Sydney Harbour climb, Rochers à Fontainebleau (2004), which included drawings and videoed ‘performance’ of noted French climbers and Pioneers (2003), an audio and photographic project involving the pioneer climbers of Ireland. These works, I hope, may enable new ways of thinking about particular activities by allowing them to be viewed within a particular cultural framework.
So is it art?…is it even performance art?
Dan Shipsides is an artist based in Belfast and research fellow at the University of Ulster.
1Slavka Sverakova, What do you see?, Fortnight 375, p. 9
Sideways text above and on preceding pages: Dan Shipsides: Gorro Frigi, 2005; courtesy the artist
walk up slope to iron cross on summit
to tree - clip - safe
right foot - left hand - left foot - right hand
left foot - right foot - right hand - left hand
left foot - right foot - right hand - left hand
push with legs to tree
crawl to easier ground
left hand pull up - push legs on pebbles
right hand up to sandstone pinch
left hand quartz positive pinch
right hand then left hand to triangular hold above
left hand to sandstone
left foot wide - right hand on wet scoop - push from tree to wall
sling tree hands on branch - pull under - beyond
move up to tree
right foot up - left foot up - gear in crack to right
push up to apex of gully with tree
right hand on sandstone pebble
left hand on quartz triangle
cross over with left leg move towards gully
gear
find small ledge push up right leg
right foot on red brick cross over
left hand sandstone break - right hand to scoop - push
right hand across - right foot up to limestone -wet
reach up left hand to sandstone pebble
join hands on limestone
left foot up high to sandstone scoop
right foot - left foot above - push thru legs
traverse right on slopers - easy
hands onto break top
left foot traverse on break - right foot - left foot - right foot
right foot up - left foot thru to thread
left hand onto wet limestone - right hand to sandstone
push feet - pad left hand - right hand
three finger right hand sandstone - left foot - right hand
left foot to edge - right foot to scoop
move right off ledge
thread
stand - balance over bulge
reach big ledge left foot - right foot - break
cross over right foot - left foot up - right foot balance
left foot up to follow right hand - reach pebble
good sandstone hold right hand
reach up - left hand three fingers to pebble
left foot to sandstone then scoop
right hand up - left foot to scoop - balance
right hand to sandstone - swap
right foot onto quartz - left foot up
balance - hands on scoop
right foot up - left foot on sandstone block
sling root
left hand pebble - left foot - right hand - left foot - right foot
right hand to pebble - move over left
left foot onto pock-marked step
right foot up - left foot to ledge - push up
left foot up - push thru left knee
both hands into big scoop
right foot - left foot - easy moving on pebbles
right foot up - left foot to sandstone break
from third belay
4th and 5th pitch tracks 9 to 12
follow to corner and belay
cross loose scree on sloped ledge to sandstone break
right hand - left foot - left foot - right hand
left foot up - right foot up - left foot up - crawl on big steps
balance
hands onto sandstone - lean forward
left foot on - right foot up - left foot onto small pebble
left foot up to sandstone block - push right leg
past quartz seamed patch
right hand on sandstone block
right hand grip edge - left foot up - right foot thru
wire thread break
left hand up - left foot across - push up
move right diagonal to break
pull with right hand - left hand on sandstone
right hand on sharp limestone block
right foot up over sandstone break
left foot up - right foot up - balance
push thru knee with right leg
left foot up in pocket - right foot onto friction-smear
left hand up - right hand on white block
move over to right - small break
old bolts
right foot to small ledge
left foot across and up
balance
right foot up - left foot up - easy angle - no hand holds
left foot into pebble socket
right foot onto cement band - smear
right hand to big pocket in limestone grooved rock
right foot round - left foot thru
right leg out - left foot thru
pull up left hand traverse right
left hand to pebble socket - right hand to edge
left foot - right foot
up to corner
left foot up - right foot high - left hand to sandstone lozenge
right traverse past bush - across face
right foot up left - left traverse to bush - gear two slings
right foot - left foot quartz
rock up on left knee
right hand onto positive black block
stretch left foot up again - right foot up
left foot onto sandstone pebble
right hand up to micro spike
left hand two finger - ochre thumb pinch
left foot onto mini sandstone edge
left hand out - traverse feet to right
gear in crack
right hand into crack
left hand up - right hand up - right foot follow
right hand thru and up to left ledge edge
right foot onto sandstone - push down - left hand red block
hands high on rounded pebbles
right foot up from ledge - left foot follow
from second belay
3rd pitch track 4 to 8
bolt belay
right hand then left step into scoop - to end second pitch
to big easy step
left hand into pocket - traverse diagonal left
right hand push on pebble
gain ledge and big sandstone block
palms down on slope - push with legs
left foot high right - traverse right foot high
pull up and thru
right hand pocket - left foot up high to outside edge
left hand pocket
right foot just above smooth quartz
left hand high onto pebble
right hand three fingers pocket - left hand onto quartz edge
small ledge
right foot up - pinch left hand - cross right foot to crack
right hand up - push pull on left foot
right foot up - balance
left foot high again
high step left - top of bulge - right foot join
right hand on sandstone positive edge pull
left hand good pocket
break
right hand into pocket up on right
move to right - right foot thru
right foot thru
balance up
left hand pinch - push pull right knee
right foot up over - right hand to pebble
move hands over bulge - balance
left hand block - cross over with right foot
left hand up - right hand up
past old bolts
thread sling solid root
left foot - right foot - easy to overlap crack
stand up
right foot thru - left foot up - right foot - feet onto ledge
right hand to small ledge - traverse feet to left
right hand onto limestone - left foot onto big pebble
right foot onto small ledge - left foot onto sandstone edge
right foot up to jug - left foot into pocket
right hand on jug - pull up
left foot up - right foot up
easy ground to quartz hold
left foot - right foot - right hand - left hand
left foot - right foot - left hand - right hand
left foot - right foot - right hand - left hand
left foot - right foot - left hand - right hand
right foot onto pebble
thru bulge - left foot up again - push over
left foot up by break
from first belay
2nd pitch track 2
to belay at Sant Marti hermitage
left hand on big quartz pebble - push with legs
right foot onto plate
left foot up - right hand to sandstone pinch
push left leg - right foot up push
right hand to pebble - stand up
right foot up - big step socket
left hand join
right hand up right to sandstone panel
right foot then left foot onto shale black block
left foot - right foot - hands balancing
cross thru - traverse to left
right hand on pebble - left hand on pebble
feet to big white block
left foot on edge
right hand slap on scoop
move up to large scoop
pushing with feet - hands just for balance
left foot then right foot above
left foot high on sandstone pebble
right foot onto break - loose scab - move left
move thru onto small pebble right hand
reach sandstone knee-high break
left foot - right foot up
two hands push up on pebbles
balance weight forward
left hand big pebble
right hand to limestone white block
right foot yellow pebble - easy up
right hand thru - left hand sandstone chock
left foot sandstone block
Start at base moving up
1st pitch track 1
Gorro Frigi 180m (GEDE - Sant Marti)
Read from here upwards.
Article reproduced from CIRCA 111, Spring 2005, pp.5055
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